Cookware · Tools
Suribachi
A ridged ceramic bowl and a wooden pestle: sesame, miso, and dressings that still taste of the grooves.
The journey
A suribachi is a mortar with a comb cut into the clay. The wooden surikogi bruises sesame and miso against those ridges so a dressing holds. Japanese kitchens still keep one for goma-ae and for any paste a blade would make too smooth.
A Western mortar can crush. The ridges are why Japanese sesame paste tastes different.
In the kitchen
Toast the sesame. Work in circles. Add liquid last. Stop when the paste is coarse enough to still be itself.
The Japanese volume's dressings assume this bowl. A molcajete is a cousin from another stone.