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Pantry guide

Best Mole for home cooking

What Mole is for, which kitchens use it, and where to find a jar worth cooking with.

Why cooks start here

The family of Mexican sauces that are not one recipe — nut, chile, spice, and patience.

In the International Cuisines books, Mole is not decoration. Add it where the recipe puts it: early if it needs fat and time, late if it is perfume.

Taste Mole before you empty the spoon. Fresh jars smell like themselves; tired ones smell like dust. Buy the smallest amount you will finish.