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Pantry guide

Best Shiso for home cooking

What Shiso is for, which kitchens use it, and where to find a jar worth cooking with.

Why cooks start here

Perilla: mint, basil, and cinnamon in one Japanese leaf, around sashimi or in a pickle.

In the International Cuisines books, Shiso is not decoration. Add it where the recipe puts it: early if it needs fat and time, late if it is perfume.

Taste Shiso before you empty the spoon. Fresh jars smell like themselves; tired ones smell like dust. Buy the smallest amount you will finish.