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Cookware · Hearths

Cauldron

A deep iron pot over a fire: goulash, bigos, borscht, and enough soup to feed whoever came in from the cold.

Also called kocioł, bogrács, казан, kotlík · From Eastern Europe

A black iron cauldron of paprika stew with a ladle and a loaf of rye beside it.

The journey

Eastern European cooking is a pot that does not mind a crowd. Hungarians name the bogrács, Poles the kocioł, others the kazan: a deep iron vessel hung or set over fire so cabbage, meat, beet, and paprika can become a single steam. The cauldron is how a village fed a wedding and how a house fed a winter.

Maps of Poland and its neighbors were redrawn more often than the recipes. What stayed was the pot in the yard or on the stove, and the rule that a soup is ready when it tastes like yesterday and tomorrow at once.

An 1818 map of Poland and neighboring lands — the kitchens whose feast pot is still a cauldron.
John Pinkerton, map of Poland (1818) · Public domain. Source

In the kitchen

Brown the meat, toast the paprika off the flame so it does not burn, then add onion, liquid, and time. A cauldron wants a simmer, not a boil. Taste for sour — vinegar, fermented beet, a little pickle juice — late, not early.

Eastern European pages in the series treat this pot as the other half of the bread. A heavy stockpot is the apartment stand-in. An open fire and an iron kettle are still the feast.

Used in these ComidaTime kitchens