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Cookware · Hearths

Parrilla

A grate over live coals: the Argentine hearth where fire, fat, and patience are the whole recipe.

Also called asado grill, parrilla criolla · From Argentina

An iron parrilla over coals with a salted steak, chimichurri, and a cast-iron poker.

The journey

Parrilla names the grill and the gathering. On the pampas, cattle and fire made a cuisine before a capital did. The grate sits at a distance you can change: close for a char, farther for a slow fat cap. Asado is not barbecue as a sauce. It is an order of meats and a wait measured in conversation.

Nineteenth-century maps of the Río de la Plata were selling a river and a hinterland. What they could not draw was the Sunday around the coals — chimichurri on the side, bread, a salad, and the rule that you do not hurry the fire.

An 1818 map of the Río de la Plata — the river country whose Sundays still belong to the grill.
John Pinkerton, map of La Plata (1818) · Public domain. Source

In the kitchen

Build a fire and wait for coals, not flames. Salt the meat early. Move the grate, not the steak, to manage heat. Rest every cut. Serve it as it comes off, not all at once from a cold platter.

The Argentine volume treats the parrilla as the country's other table. A kettle grill can hint at it. A screaming-hot skillet can cook a steak. Neither is an asado.

Used in these ComidaTime kitchens