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Pantry guide

Best Chinkiang vinegar for home cooking

What Chinkiang vinegar is for, which kitchens use it, and where to find a jar worth cooking with.

Why cooks start here

Chinese black vinegar: malty, dark, the sour of a dumpling plate.

In Chinese cooking, Chinkiang vinegar is not decoration. Add it where the recipe puts it: early if it needs fat and time, late if it is perfume.

Taste Chinkiang vinegar before you empty the spoon. Fresh jars smell like themselves; tired ones smell like dust. Buy the smallest amount you will finish.

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