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Pantry guide

Best Sichuan pepper for home cooking

What Sichuan pepper is for, which kitchens use it, and where to find a jar worth cooking with.

Why cooks start here

Not a pepper: a citrus-numbing husk that makes mapo and dry-fried chicken hum.

In Chinese cooking, Sichuan pepper is not decoration. Add it where the recipe puts it: early if it needs fat and time, late if it is perfume.

Toast and grind. The numbing is the point. Pick out the shiny black seeds if you can — the husk is the spice.

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