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Pantry guide

Best Ras el hanout for home cooking

What Ras el hanout is for, which kitchens use it, and where to find a jar worth cooking with.

Why cooks start here

The shopkeeper's best drawer: a blend so personal that no two jars in the medina are quite the same.

Bloom a spoonful in oil with onion before meat or vegetables go in. The blend wants fat and time. Too much, too late, and it tastes dusty. A pinch in a marinade for chicken or lamb is enough to make the kitchen smell like a courtyard.

If you buy a jar, smell it. If it smells only of cumin and paprika, it is not the head of anyone's shop. Look for warmth, floral notes, and a little bitterness. Then cook something you would serve to guests.

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Related kitchens

Moroccan

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